#APERTURE SOFTWARE VS LIGHTROOM FULL#
#APERTURE SOFTWARE VS LIGHTROOM PRO#

#APERTURE SOFTWARE VS LIGHTROOM PRO#

To use the Lightroom add-in, you begin by right clicking and choosing the Sharpener Pro 3.0 feature you want to use. I find this expanded view useful when doing sharpening adjustments. TIP: Nik Software products donвЂ™t have maximize buttons, but if you move the window into the top left corner of your screen and then drag the handle on the bottom right corner of the window you can fill the screen with the UI.

#APERTURE SOFTWARE VS LIGHTROOM FULL#

As a result, I think youвЂ™ll find that viewing the full view and making adjustments in most cases will create the best overall results (and your images will look much better than those who pixel peep).

Toggling the preview checkbox allows you to see a before and after to see just how much it has improved your image. However, if you pixel peep and try to do the minimal sharpening, the results on the web or in print will suffer.ДЇortunately, Sharpener Pro is very good at showing real-time results (with a slight lag on my computer) of any of the settings you will change. At 100% you may be disappointed sometimes with the settings, but for your image on your web site or print, the settings may be perfect. I say this because sharpening is much like anti-aliasing on fonts where at 100% the fonts will look terrible with anti-aliasing, but the enhancements made at a distance will make the text more clear and legible (like in the case of ClearType on Windows).

However, if you are going to be doing a print and you arenвЂ™t going to be staring at it under a microscope, then donвЂ™t view it at 100% when sharpening. For example, if you are going to be doing a huge print and could see it up close then sure zoom to 100%. Instead, I suggest you zoom to a level that represents how you will be looking at the image for your final output. However, in Sharpener Pro I donвЂ™t recommend that you do that. In other products, if you do sharpening you are always reminded to zoom to 100% when doing sharpening. A Word about Changing the Settings and Zoom I highly recommend you perform noise reduction as your very first step and sharpening the very last step. In fact, Nik Software has products for all stages of your workflow and output sharpening falls at the end of that group. Sharpening is your last step to prepare your image to look its best for a specific targeted output (a display device for the web, a small or large print, etcвЂ¦). You should be done with all noise reduction, exposure/color adjustments, filters, etcвЂ¦ and have completed your final crop/resizing. When to Sharpen in your WorkflowДonвЂ™t even think about sharpening until you are 100% done with the processing of your image. As a result if you own it or have tried the demo and were disappointed with the results, please read on as this article will enlighten you on what you and I (until recently) have missed. ItвЂ™s a fantastic product that requires a solid understanding of its feature set, so you donвЂ™t just run this filter and hit OK. If I had to summarize this article, IвЂ™d say this is really a story of a discovery of the most misunderstood product in the Nik Collection by Google.

Aperture software vs lightroom